![]() ![]() Next the angles are clamped to the frame so that we can bore holes through the frame and the angle at the same time. We used the same setup to cut two aluminum angles to the same height.Įach angle gets two holes that are tapped for M8 screws. We cut the frame at a constant height by clamping an angle grinder to the workbench and carefully removing the upper part of the frame. We started to remove part of the frame with a Dremel tool – very carefully as we expected the grid to be under tension.Īfter removing the top piece it got clear that the frame is not necessary for holding the grid together. The issue with this bed is that the steel frame takes up quite some valuable area.Īs the total area of the bed minus the frame is not big enough to hold a standard piece of paper the frame has to go. As an even cheaper alternative you could look at grids for covering ventilation shafts in your local home center. This honeycomb structure minimizes the reflection of the laser. ![]() This is the product I’ve used: Honeycomb bed. ![]() So the bed need to go.Īs a replacement I ordered a honeycomb bed – also from China – for around 30 Euros. ![]() The stock bed of the K40 is completely useless and I don’t know a single person that would actually use the clamp. Once the connections are soldered, push the small lengths of silicon tubing over the connections for safety.In this article, we upgrade the bed of the K40 laser cutter to a height-adjustable honeycomb bed with scales for aligning the workpiece. Now solder the lead to the post, making sure you cover all the wire that's tying them together. Simply wrap the spare wire coming out of the solder around both the post & the supply-lead. Take the supply-lead and tie it onto the solder-covered post protruding from the laser tube. We'll use this later to cover the bare soldered connection. Now it's time to solder the supply-leads onto the tube.īefore attaching the supply-leads, cut a 2cm length of silicon tubing for each end and place over the supply-lead. Pull any spare water pipe through the back of the laser & out of the way. Place it carefully in the clips within the laser chassis & tighten them. You're now ready to install the new tube. You might find it easier to achieve this if you warm the pipes up in some warm water. With the tube to the rear of the laser-chassis, push the silicon water-supply pipes onto the inlets at each end of the laser tube. ![]()
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